Walking and Tasting in Louisville
As Father’s Day approaches and with it regular requests for advice on spiritous gift-giving, and as two of my friends have been separately planning imminent trips to Louisville, I find that my thoughts have of late been turning to bourbon and Kentucky. Add to that an email received this week informing me that tickets to the 2025 Bourbon Classic have now gone on sale and it dawns on me that it is most definitely time to finally write something about my visit to Louisville earlier this year.
My February trip was mainly to attend this year’s Bourbon Classic, an experience I found to be well worth the journey! True, the event’s two galas do err on the pricy side, but I found each to be a unique experience and thoroughly enjoyed both. (Full disclosure: I was comped.) Further, by extending my stay a couple of days, I was able to do some bourbon distillery exploring the likes of which I hadn’t previously thought possible.
To explain, while by now most whiskey drinkers will be familiar with the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, which can take you to eighteen or more distilleries, the problem with the Trail is the distance that needs to be covered, which is considerable. Meaning that the responsible whiskey tourist must purchase a tour package such as that offered by Pegasus, shell out for costly private transport, or have one of their party act as designated driver.
Happily, however, there is a new trail in town, and following it requires no car, as it spans a distance of a mere four kilometers or so and covers nine distilleries or distillery experiences, plus one quite good brewery, all via an easily walkable stretch of downtown Louisville and New Louisville, or NuLu. Your sojourn requires a bit of planning, as opening and closing hours vary widely, but with minimal prior research your whiskey walk can be an experience sure to satisfy any drinks tourist’s wants and needs.
Stop 1: Kentucky Peerless Distilling
Family-owned and less than a decade old in its current incarnation – the distillery was originally established in Henderson, Kentucky, in 1881 – Peerless produces both bourbons and ryes, with particular skill demonstrated in their small batch special editions.
Look for: Peerless Double Oak Rye, when available.
Stop 2: Michter’s Fort Nelson Distillery
Fort Nelson is the downtown showpiece of the revived Michter’s Distillery, born as Shenk’s in mid-1700s Pennsylvania. The tour includes a sampling of six spirits, a highlight of which is the opportunity to taste the difference barrel entry proof makes to a whiskey.
Look for: Michter’s US*1 Barrel Strength Bourbon
Intermezzo: Across the street from Michter’s is the Louisville Slugger Museum and Factory, which offers a fun tour that includes a complimentary miniature baseball bat at its conclusion.
Stop 3: Bardstown Bourbon Company
Makers of numerous bourbons, some for themselves and many for other companies, this is an experience rather than a distillery, but worth a stop for shopping and a self-curated tasting at the bar. (More formal tastings are also available by reservation.)
Look for: Limited edition whiskeys in the Collaborative Series, which feature interesting partnerships and innovative barrel finishes.
Stop 4: Buzzard’s Roost Whiskey
A small operation still sourcing its whiskey, Buzzard’s Roost has a bar at which you can drink, and a boutique where you can shop, but the real draw is its tutored tastings that are both reasonably priced and as fun as they are informative.
Look for: Toasted Barrel Rye Whiskey
Stop 5: Evan Williams Bourbon Experience
A bit of a bourbon-themed Fun House, the Evan Williams Experience does nonetheless offer tour and tasting possibilities, which is an easy way to spend an hour and sample a quartet of whiskeys. Or you can just head to the bar and order a flight.
Look for: Square 6 High-Rye Bourbon, exclusive to Kentucky
Stop 6: Old Forester Distilling
An expansive set-up smack in the middle of downtown, Old Forester tours are booked up well in advance, so unless you are good at planning you’ll need to content yourself with a whiskey, tasting flight, or Old Fashioned in George’s Bar.
Look for: Old Forester Birthday Bourbon
Intermezzo: Against the Grain Public House is a street-level brewery nestled in a corner of Slugger Field and a great place to take a bourbon break. Try the Brown Note brown ale or anything smoked.
Stop 7: Angel’s Envy
The late, great distiller Lincoln Henderson’s ‘retirement project’ made cask finishes for bourbon and rye whiskeys not only acceptable, but trendy! Don’t leave without a visit to the stylish and comfortable second floor bar.
Look for: Angel’s Envy Cask Strength
Stop 8: Rabbit Hole Distillery
An innovator in the use of specialty malts in bourbons and rye whiskeys, Rabbit Hole was in the midst of refining its tour and renovating its bar on my visit, so I can’t really say what to expect except that I’m pretty confident it will be well worth the time.
Look for: Founder’s Collection limited releases
Stop 9: Prohibition Craft Spirits (aka Nulu Whiskey)
Definitely the most ‘craft’ of all the distilleries mentioned, this rough-and-tumble distillery is less than a decade old and still sourcing most of its whiskey, although rums and clear spirits are made on site. Skip the tour and stick to the full-service cocktail and tasting bar.
Look for: Nulu Toasted Rye
Note: While walking around both downtown and NuLu is perfectly safe during the day, caution should be taken at night, particularly in the small area between the two parts of town. For more information on planning a visit to Louisville, visit Louisville Tourism.
To read further about the ever-evolving bourbon market, check out my story, ‘Bourbon’s Third Act,’ in the latest issue of the marvellous Full Pour magazine!