Glenfarclas Aged Single Malts
Glenfarclas Distillery, Ballindalloch, Speyside, Scotland; glenfarclas.com
Even many savvy whisky aficionados are unfamiliar with the Scottish single malts sold under the Glenfarclas name, or if they are aware of the Speyside distillery’s existence, it’s because at some point they have sampled or perhaps even picked up a bottle of the 10 or 12 year old. Which is as much a shame as it is generally true, because the Glenfarclas family is home to some of the most delightful, and well-priced, aged whiskies you’re likely to find.
A fifth generation family-owned operation, Glenfarclas is known primarily for its Oloroso sherry barrel aging, which tends to yield big aromas of orange, spice, and chocolate or toasted nut, particularly in its older expressions. But somewhat paradoxically, the distillery is also capable of producing whiskies of subtle complexity, sometimes even freshness, which rather than belying the sherry wood usage merely illustrates the skill of cask management on display in the company’s warehouses.
Earlier today, I was invited by the Canadian importer of Glenfarclas to an organized tasting of several older expressions, which while certainly welcome and appreciated, does not present the best conditions for proper evaluation. (As regular readers will know, unless otherwise stated, all the notes on Beaumont Drinks are the result of studious tasting lasting fifteen to thirty minutes per beer or spirit, always performed at least twice prior to publication.) As a result, the observations presented here are more impressions than proper tasting notes, presented with the promise that, if I am afforded the opportunity, I will follow-up with more complete notes in the future.
One additional note: The most affordable and popular expression of Glenfarclas, their 12 year old, was not presented at the tasting. I will add that as an individual review when I have the time to do so.
Photo courtesy of Glenfarclas
Glenfarclas 15 year old (46%): Light to medium gold in colour, this has a fresh aroma that mixes notes of meringue, orange, sultana raisins, and a hint of nutmeg. The flavour is bright and lively, with mandarin orange notes up front leading to a mid-palate of marmalade and vanilla accompanied by dried fruit, finishing dry and very lightly spicy. On first impressions, this is about as good an aperitif whisky as you’re going to find.
93; $150 - $175
Glenfarclas 25 year old (43%): Darker than the 15, more a medium gold, this has an aroma that shows a much more pronounced sherry character, with stewed raisin, toasted almond, oak, and hints of ginger and marmalade. Rich and round on the palate, it offers toffee, vanilla, raisins, toasted oak, and orange oil, finishing off-dry with nutty notes of stewed orange and stewed raisin. In the same flavour family as the 15, but full-bodied enough to be served with medium-rare roast beef.
92; $451 - $500
Glenfarclas 30 year old (43%): Now a deep, coppery gold, this represents a definite departure from the flavour camp of the 15 and 25. The nose offers marzipan and marmalade, toasted almond, citrus oil, and a hint of nutmeg. The palate entry is rich and creamy, bringing notes of toffee and clotted cream, but mellows on the mid-palate with florals, orange zest, and a hint of lime, finishing with oakiness, a light note of charred wood, and a hint of raw cacao. An intriguing dram with a palate that is much lighter and fresher than its aroma might suggest.
93; $900 - $1,356
Glenfarclas 35 year old (43%): Perhaps a shade darker than the 30, this has intensified significantly over five years, with aroma notes of the 30 but deeper and richer, with flamed orange zest instead of marmalade, toasted almond and toffee in place of marzipan. The body is likewise an amplified version of the 30, with cooked raisin, cocoa, burnt orange peel, and date, finishing dry with lingering dried fruit and hints of brown spice. A contemplative whisky.
91; $1,300 - $1,834
Glenfarclas 40 year old (43%): A stunning transformation from the 30 and 35, this is less an evolution than an entirely new beginning. Just a shade darker than the 30 and 35, it offers immediate chocolate and toasted nut alongside toffee, floral vanilla, and dried apricot and peach notes on the nose, with a very soft undercurrent of cinnamon. The palate is surprisingly fresh for a four decade old whisky, with orange up front followed by vanilla, toffee, raisin and date, citrus oils, and toasted almond, finishing with lingering chocolate and toffee. Outstanding complexity and, when you consider what comparable 40 year old whiskies are going for these days, a rather stunning value!
95; $1,700 - $2,310; CRITIC’S CHOICE
In Summation: Compared to its Speyside peers, Glenfarclas not only shows great skill in warehousing its whiskies, but provides some of the best value in the market for ultra-aged single malts.