Żubrówka Biała Vodka (40%)
This Polish brand of vodka, owned by CEDC International, is part of a family of brands best known for the distinctively yellowish and herbaceous Bison Grass vodka, flavoured with an aromatic herb also known as sweetgrass. Biała means ‘white,’ so it should come as no surprise that this is the company’s basic, unflavoured vodka, distilled from winter rye.
(Although not widely available outside of Poland and a few other markets, CEDC, which is in turn owned by the Polish firm Grupa Maspex, also makes a variety of other vodkas under the Żubrówka brand, including the wheat vodka Czarna, aged in different types of wood, and a range of flavoured vodkas that include apple and mint.)
Although the Biała is untouched by bison grass, there is a distinct herbal character to its aroma alongside a faint floral note, both elements subtle but apparent. The rye used in its creation is not really notable, but since multiple reports claim this is distilled six times, I suppose that is unsurprising.
The palate entry is sweet, almost a bit sugary, which surprises after the dryness of the nose. This is followed by a mellow, spicy character with waning sweetness and a growing peppery note. Unlike numerous other vodkas in its price category, however, there is no alcoholic burn or harshness, just a pleasing warmth and creamy character. While I wouldn’t feel bad about mixing this into anything from a Bloody Mary to a Moscow Mule, it’s also a vodka that I am quite happy sipping on its own, perhaps with a gentle chill – but never from the freezer.
87 CRITIC’S CHOICE ($26 - $33)