Wellington Imperial Stout (8%)

Back in the 1990s, Ontario craft breweries seemed loathe to produce any beer above 6.5% alcohol by volume, and when they occasionally did, it usually wasn’t terribly successful. There were infrequent barley wine releases, not many of which even hit the mediocre mark, a strong doppelbock, eisbock, or old ale here and there, and the very rare sighting of something potent and Belgian-style from a brewery other than Québec’s Unibroue.  

And there was Wellington Imperial Stout.

Regularly brewed since the early 1990s, the Wellington Imperial was one of a handful of Ontario-brewed strong beers that stood up to international competition in its style, earning a rare three star (out of four) rating in my first Great Canadian Beer Guide. It dipped a bit towards the end of that decade when it was rolled into the ill-fated Iron Duke family of stronger-than-normal brands, but bounced nicely back in the 2000s. It is, I fear, sometimes overshadowed by special release, barrelled or flavoured Imperial stouts by the likes of Amsterdam Brewing, Collective Arts, and Henderson Brewing, but according to the brewery, a loyal following keeps it chugging along nicely.  

And annually around this time of the year, it is joined by a trio of specialty Imperial stouts, all of which I have sampled and found to be impressive. M31 Andromeda is bourbon barrel-conditioned to beautiful balance, rather than bourbony overload, with roasted malt and vanilla in delightful harmony (81). M31 Sirrah is spiced with cinnamon, cocoa, and chillies, and again displays the sort of restrained balance that makes such combinations pleasurable rather than overwhelming (83). And M31 Nembus makes the seemingly unlikely combination of blueberry and lemon work, although the fruitiness is easily muted if served too cold (77).

(The M31 series is available in a gift pack with a glass from the LCBO for $24.95, or individually from the brewery for $5.95 each.)

The available-year-round original, however, is to my mind the star of the show. Its style is English rather than American, so cast aside any thoughts of bold hoppiness or intense roast, and instead settle in for something that is round, rich, and flavourful. The nose is chocolaty, but gently so, and a touch earthy with hints of sultana raisins and toasted walnut. The flavour begins lightly sweet and offers a whisper of brown spice alongside cocoa and plum notes, leading to a rich and round mid-palate with dark chocolate, touches of espresso and vanilla, stewed plums, raisins and black currants, and a suggestion of burnt toast. The finish is drying, softly bitter, coffee-ish, and lingering.

This is an Ontario strong beer staple that deserves more attention and respect than it generally receives, I believe. It’s also something I shall be making a staple in my beer fridge this winter.

87 ($4.25/473 ml can)