The Maligne Range Tekarra (48%)

Some time ago, my friend Don Tse sent me a miniature of this whisky – with which he has no affiliation – and it has sat on my desk ever since. Yesterday evening, I finally opened it with zero intent on review, as the small sample size would permit only a single rather than the multiple tastings I usually effect prior to reviewing anything on Beaumont Drinks.

One sip was enough to make me change my mind.

It is not that this whisky is so extraordinary, mind you. It’s not a Sons of Vancouver Realms of Rye or a Shelter Point 12 year old. But it is sufficiently unusual in both its construct and its flavour, and deftly executed, to boot, that I believe it deserves singling out.

About the distillery itself I know precious little. It is based in Jasper, Alberta, as per the website, and looks to have a damn impressive menu for its restaurant. (I very much want the smoked in-house bone-in beef short rib!) And it’s not afraid to sell you tastes of other companies’ whiskies, in addition to its own handful of expressions designed to “explore the potential of what Canadian whisky can be.”

That last bit is very much in evidence in Tekarra. Crafted from malts more often reserved for brewing – crystal, dark crystal, chocolate, and midnight wheat, in addition to pale – and said to have been inspired by Imperial porter, the distillery adds an extra element to the whisky via the addition of demerara sugar during blending, a practice completely within the bounds of the rules governing Canadian whisky.

The result is a whisky that is lighter gold in colour than you might expect, given the use of those dark malts, and rather captivating in its aroma. There are dark sugar notes, for certain, but also yellow and dark fruits, both fresh and dried, combined with honey and sweet licorice candy.

The palate is generally sweet in character, but with depth rather than candied superficiality. Cooked honey and cane sugar lead off, followed by hard cherry candy, red plum, a suggestion of cinnamon, faint hints of coffee and burnt wood, and towards the end a forest-like earthiness. The finish dries out considerably and demonstrates a gentle spiciness, leaving lingering notes of star anise, cinnamon stick, and burnt grain.

This is potentially a game-changing spirit that has not quite found its footing. It is enough to make me wish I had more, however, and inspire considerable curiosity as to what else is happening at the Maligne Distillery. I very much look forward to discovering more in due course.

83 ($120/750 ml)