J.P. Wiser’s 15 year old (40%)

The tariffs may be on hold for now, but I’m still sensing a strong sentiment of ‘Buy Canadian’ in the air these days. So I am continuing with reviews of Canadian spirits that may easily substitute for their American counterparts, even if, as with this one, the flavour profiles are not exactly interchangeable.

While so far this week I have focused on a Canadian bourbon substitute and a series of excellent BC single malt whiskies, there is much joy to be had in traditionally styled Canadian whisky, as well. It was not long ago that I was pretty effusive in my praise of a lovely limited release from Canadian Club, and only a bit more than a month earlier I was pleased to highlight a tasty Canadian style treat from Alberta’s Eau Claire Distillery.

And now we come to a staple brand from the Pernod Ricard-owned J.P. Wiser’s, distilled in what I believe is still North America’s largest distillery in Windsor, Ontario. (Canadian Club, which is owned by Suntory Global, formerly Beam Suntory, is curiously enough distilled in the same place, but that’s another story for another day.)

According to the distillery, this is a blend of mostly column-distilled corn spirit and a “touch of bold rye,” and my tasting notes agree wholeheartedly. Also of note is that it is aged in three types of barrels: ex-bourbon, ex-Canadian, and virgin oak. (Technically speaking, the ex-Canadian are likely also ex-bourbon, but sufficiently used for other Canadian whiskies that their bourbon-y character has been all drawn out.)

The rye is not a big player in this whisky, so those looking for a spicy impact are advised to search elsewhere. If you’re looking for subtlety, balance, and divine approachability, however, you’ve come to the right place.  

Medium gold in colour with a perhaps surprisingly fresh and caramelly aroma for a spirit of its age, this also offers notes of toffee, green apple, and hints of spicy banana bread on the nose. The flavour begins with more of that caramel and toffee, with mostly baking spice but also the faintest hint of black pepper arriving in the mid-palate, followed by notes of dried fruit and lingering but much drier toffee. The finish dries further, with soft peppery and dried citrus peel notes.

While I think this is a bit too soft a whisky for mixing, I do find it exceedingly enjoyable on its own as a fairly classic example of well-aged Canadian whisky. Add an ice cube if you must, but try it neat first. I’m betting you’ll be happy you did.   

86 ($52-$62)