Rémy Martin V.S.O.P. Cognac (40%)
I couldn’t possibly run a series on romantic beverage selections without including a Cognac, and because of the special Opulence event happening at the Summerhill LCBO in Toronto until February 24, I have decided upon Rémy V.S.O.P. as my feature. What is Opulence, you ask? Simply, it is a free tasting experience provided by the brand, during which you not only get to sample Rémy X.O., but can also pair it with various foods and, if you’re moved to buy a bottle, have it specially engraved. Register here to secure your free spot!
Cognac has a bit of an image problem in that many people associate it with either fussy rich folk in country clubs or manor homes or after-dinner drinking from voluminous snifters, or both! But, in fact, Cognac is simply a very nice sort of brandy, suited to enjoyment in any number of ways, including with food, and produced according to a rigid appellation d'origine contrôlée, or AOC, which assures that whichever brand you choose, it will always be a beverage of quality.
Rémy Martin is one of the older Cognac houses, celebrating its 300th year of existence in 2024, and also one of the few to distill their spirits sur lie, or on the lees of the grapes. I am not enough of a Cognac expert to say whether or how this changes the eau de vie, but Salvatore Calabrese, author of Cognac: A Liquid History, seems to think it does and that’s good enough for me. Rémy also uses exclusively grapes from the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne regions of the Cognac appellation, which are reputed to yield the best quality fruit.
Deep gold in colour, almost brassy, Rémy V.S.O.P. is, like all V.S.O.P Cognacs, composed of a blend of barrels the absolute youngest of which is four years of age. This affords it just a hint of rancio, the earthy, nutty, mushroomy character prized in older Cognacs, although its flavour is by far more a result of the grapes used and the careful blending employed.
On the nose, there is a distinctive note of dried apricot and fresh pear, coupled with a touch of sweet orange, vanilla, and a modicum of earthiness. The palate begins sweetly and honeyish, a bit floral, with apparent vanilla and stone fruit, before drying on the mid-palate, yielding a hint of nuttiness, dried rather than fresh or candied fruit, and oaky, earthy flavours. Overall, the complexity here is impressive and the rich, silky mouthfeel almost sensual.
You could easily partner this with chocolate truffles after dinner and be completely satisfied and happy, but I think a better, more fascinating experience would be provided by pairing it with Parmigiano Reggiano before the meal, marveling how the flavours intertwine and impact one another in a combination of age and umami.
90 ($99 - $110)