A Pair from Pivot Spirits, Rolling Hills, Alberta

With tariff talk in the air once more – did it ever go away? I was out of the country for a few days enjoying a welcome respite from the stress – it’s back to #TariffTimes reviews, today featuring a small but hugely innovative farm distillery out of southern Alberta.

I first became aware of Pivot Spirits while researching Canadian producers of triticale whisky for a feature I was writing for Whisky Advocate. (Publication date TBA.) There are several in the country, mostly clustered in the west, where triticale is grown, but Pivot stood out because it is a fully integrated operation that uses sustainable farming practices, including the centre pivot irrigation systems that give the distillery it’s name, to grow the grains used to make a variety of spirits, including rye, spelt, and mixed grain whiskies.

It was the triticale, a hybrid grain that is part wheat and part rye, that had my interest, though. For while, as noted, several distilleries in Canada employ the grain, a much smaller number use it exclusively to make a whisky. Pivot is one of them.   

When I reached out to owners Lars Hirch and Rachelle Fiset for a quote to use in my story, Lars was immediately curious about how I had found them, describing his operation as “a small farm distillery that has only entered regional spirits competition.” When I explained my research and added some information about Beaumont Drinks and the #TariffTimes series, he was immediately interested in sending along a couple of whisky samples for inclusion.

As much as it is my habit to review only one product at a time in these pages, I decided here to review both of the spirits Lars and Rachelle sent, since I found the triticale-connected spirits to each be fascinating in its own way.

Weatherhead Whisky (46%): This richly golden whisky is distilled from a mash of barley, rye, and triticale, then aged for four years. (In what sort of barrels is not specified, but my guess would be bourbon.) The balance in the aroma seems immediately impressive, with soft orange, red apple, and vanilla mingling with notes of white pepper, freshly cut wood, and slightly burnt toffee. The palate begins softly and sweetly, with orange caramel notes, vanilla, and a bit of candied apple, but grows in both stature and body on the mid-palate, becoming bolder with more of a rye grain presence – black and white pepper, hints of toasted brown spice – and notes of drier caramel, very floral vanilla, toasted sourdough, and slightly caramelized green apple. This finish offers a lingering mix of pepper and caramel.

This is most definitely a whisky one could sip neat, over ice, or in a cocktail. Relative to the Triticale, it is also, I suspect, far more approachable for most Canadians. 79 ($75)   

Triticale Whisky (46%): Having for years heard about, but never tasted spirits made from triticale, I was quite anxious for the opportunity to sample this 100% triticale whisky. Said to combine the sweetness of wheat with the spice of rye, the medium gold coloured whisky announces itself with an aroma that seems to speak more of the latter than the former, peppery enough that it actually tingles the nostrils, but also with rich vanilla notes that soon calm the spice. In between, there are notes of green apple, a touch of nuttiness, and a hint of flamed orange zest. The flavour begins sweet and honey-ish, with floral notes and vanilla obvious, but soon segues into something more grainy and oaky, almost chewy, in fact. Apple and orange notes emerge to quell the oak and grain, and then peppery spice arrives on the mid-palate along with a suggestion of nutty caraway. The finish sees a return of the oak, although in much reduced form, and a bit of lingering black pepper alongside warming alcohol. Add a cube of ice and the spice is calmed a bit, bringing forward malty, fruity, wheaty notes.

Utterly unique, this whisky is an experience I think one needs to have more than once or twice before the nuances of the spirit may be fully appreciated. That said, the reward is most definitely worth the effort. 83 ($75)