Noteworthy Gin Barrel Rested (43%)

When Christine Sismondo and I researched and wrote our landmark Canadian distilleries guide, Canadian Spirits, the country was pretty much awash in barrel-aged gins. The reason for this was simple: By regulation, Canadian whisky requires three years in the barrel, so distilleries that were putting down whiskies for the future were also distilling white spirits for more immediate release, mainly vodkas, gins, and moonshines, and recognized quickly that one way to add perceived value to a gin is to rest it in a barrel for a few months.

Problem was, very few of these oak-accented gins were terribly good. There were exceptions, of course, particularly from several gin-focused distilleries in Québec, but for the most part such products were mere novelties destined to eventually be replaced in product portfolios by properly aged whiskies.

One which bucked that trend is the Noteworthy Gin Barrel Rested from Oliver, British Columbia’s Dubh Glas Distillery, which was first released not long after my 2018 distillery visit and today’s helps form Dubh Glas’ triumvirate of gins alongside Noteworthy New Western Dry and Noteworthy Navy Strength.  

Dubh Glas owner Grant Stevely has had his sights set on whisky from Day One at his Okanagan Valley operation, and his single malts are not only presently quite good, but also show some of the greatest promise in the country. However, proving that his deft hand with the barrel is not limited to brown spirits, he also takes his assertive signature gin and ages it for a minimum of a year in “select oak barrels” of unstated origin. The result is a gin of uncommon character.

On the nose, this pale gold spirit offers ample juniper mixed with oaky and herbal notes, a touch of white pepper, and dry yet perfumey vanilla, creating an aroma of great complexity and depth. On the palate, it starts sweet and vanilla-forward, but segues quickly to a more peppery middle, with vanilla, baked pear, coriander, sweet orange zest, and soft notes of resinous herbs. The finish is peppery, dry, and lingers with notes of citrus, juniper, and coriander.

Much more than a gin that’s been left in a barrel, this is a skillfully and quite carefully aged spirit designed to present all of its parts in equal harmony, which makes it not just a gin sure to appeal to whisky drinkers, but one of the best aged gins I have yet come across.

91 ($35/375 ml)