Newfoundland Distillery Whisky (43%)

The Newfoundland Distillery was set up to produce whisky from the get-go. As I wrote in Canadian Spirits several years ago, when chef Bill Carter returned home to Newfoundland from working in Ottawa, it was to become a whisky distiller. It was only when he enlisted the assistance and partnership of friend and artist Peter Wilkins that the idea was broached of making something other than a spirit that takes a minimum of three years to mature.

And so, Seaweed Gin, an umami-rich but not overly seaweed-y spirit, and Cloudberry Gin, equal parts berry and piney juniper, were first out the gate for the distillery, followed by sourced rums including the award-winning, spiced Gunpowder & Rose Rum. And then, finally, on November 30 of 2023, the company’s first whisky.

Given Newfoundland and Labrador’s traditional association with Ireland, it’s appropriate that the first whisky from the distillery, the very first modern whisky distilled and aged on the Rock, in fact, is Irish style single pot still. It is, as per Irish tradition, triple distilled from a mix of malted and unmalted barley, all grown in Atlantic Canada, and aged for a minimum of three years in virgin oak and bourbon barrels on the western shore of Conception Bay.

Bright gold in colour, the nose of second release of this whisky offers a distinct beachfront character, something which at first sniff can be a trifle off-putting – my immediate reaction to the whisky was not altogether positive – but which, after a little time spent with it, morphs into something singularly comforting, almost soothing. Alongside aromas of caramel and charred oak, I find a faintly smoky salinity, notes of raisin, oaky vanilla, burnt orange peel, and a hint of toasted almond.

The palate starts on the sweet side, as such whiskies tend to do, with butterscotch and a hint of cooked cream. This leads to a slightly drying mid-palate of cooked apple, toasted oak, some raw woodiness – arguably a bit too apparent – fig, and a touch of cinnamon, all finishing surprisingly dry, oaky, a bit earthy, and appetizing.

This might not be a love-at-first-taste whisky, or at least it wasn’t for me, but it certainly does shine once you get to know it a bit. Only the distillery’s second batch, while I’m happy with it as it is, I also very much look forward to seeing how it evolves in the future.

86 ($56; sold out at the distillery, but still showing on the Newfoundland Labrador Liquor Corporation website; further releases will continue every few months through 2024)