Hofbräu Oktoberfestbier (6.3%)
Munich’s Oktoberfest features the beers of only six breweries, the ‘Big Six,’ in fact: Anheuser-Busch InBev-owned Löwenbräu and Spaten, Paulaner and Hacker-Pschorr, each owned by Germany’s Schörghuber Corporate Group in partnership with Heineken, state-owned Hofbräuhaus, and the independent Augustiner. And in each of the big tents at the festival, with seating capacities numbering in the thousands, you will be served one of those breweries beers, or in deference to the changing culture, the alcohol-free version of that beer.
Over the years, including one time at Oktoberfest itself, I have had the opportunity to try the beers of all six breweries on multiple occasions, both in series and alongside one another, and on that basis I can say that my consistent favourite is Augustiner. Not because it is independent or because it still operates its own maltings or because its two principle Munich beerhalls are each spectacular in their own way, but simply because, from Lagerbier Hell to Hellerbock to Oktoberfestbier, its beers are simply superior to those of its peers.
That said, I begin this review with a note of caution. Although packaged in a brown glass bottle, one of the first two bottles I bought of this beer was rather badly skunked. To be honest, I haven’t been paying a lot of attention lately to what’s been on offer in the beer aisle at the LCBO, but I can only assume that this has been in stock long enough to warrant reaching to the back of the shelf when buying.
Anyway, on to the aroma of this bright golden lager. It is, frankly, almost exactly what I expect of a modern Oktoberfest beer, with light sweetness, a honeyed grain character – although I haven’t eaten breakfast cereal in decades, I’m immediately reminded of a bowl of Golden Grahams – with a smidgen of candied lemon peel and a hint of vanilla-accented spice.
On the palate, it is likewise on the money, with a clean, fresh, lightly sweet and faintly floral front leading to a sweeter, rounder, richer mid-palate offering a soft maltiness, notes of key lime and preserved lemon, and accents of wildflower honey. Considering the sweetness of the body, the finish dries impressively with a little grassiness and a touch of spice.
Would I like a bit more complexity? Yes, definitely. Am I disappointed in the character and flavour of this beer? Not at all. To drink this is to imagine oneself at Oktoberfest, laughing and drinking and having an excellent time. Buy you bottles in twos, chill them well, and serve together in a Maß or the largest glass you own.
87 ($3.95/500 ml)