Glenfarclas 12 Year Old Highland Single Malt Whisky (43%)

A week ago, I was lucky enough to attend, and subsequently write about, a tasting of five exceptional single malt whiskies from the Glenfarclas Distillery, located in the Scottish Highlands. (The distillery actually sits in what one would call the Speyside district, but as the Grant family who own the distillery prefer to describe their whiskies as being Highland rather than Speyside, I am respecting their wishes.) Today, I get to ‘complete the set,’ as it were, by adding the following notes on the 12 year old.

As noted in the Portfolio Spotlight on Glenfarclas, the distillery ages exclusively in  sherry casks, which creates expectations of big flavours of orange and spice, dried fruit and toasted nuts. And sure enough, this does offer plenty of orange and a bit of nutmeg on the nose, along with the meringue and sultanas of the 15 year old, but it is also every bit as bright and fresh as its older sibling. Where 12 years in Oloroso sherry wood could conspire to make this heavy and fruitcake-y in its aroma, it is instead, while admittedly somewhat dense, lively and even perfumey.

On the palate, this dichotomy continues, with appetizing citrus and bright honey notes providing the vibrancy and raisin, date, and light butterscotch adding the backbone. The finish is a bit tight and concentrated, begging perhaps for a drop of water or a sliver of ice, but still manages to remain fresh, almost mouth-wateringly dry, and highly appetizing.

While not quite the relative bargain as are some of the older expressions of Glenfarclas– I mean, plus-or-minus two grand for a 40 year old Scottish single malt! – this is still a value-for-the-dollar dram and a wonderful appetizer whisky.

90 ($90 - $111)