Tooth and Nail Truce (9.5%)
Tooth and Nail has since its opening been one of the heavy hitters in the Ottawa brewing scene, with beers like the German-inspired pilsner Vim & Vigor, Fortitude Stout, and the mostly Old School IPA, Rabble Rouser. Mixed in with all of that have been such special releases as the Brett conditioned Brettanonacity, a bottle of which I still have in my fridge from years back – Brettanomyces-finished beers tend to improve greatly with age – and this Belgian-inspired strong and dark ale, aged on raisins, figs, and star anise.
(A bit of disclosure is called for here. Matt Tweedy and Dayna Guy, the husband-and-wife owners of Tooth and Nail, used to work at the Toronto bar and restaurant, beerbistro, of which I was a founding partner back in the early aughts. That relationship has not, however, caused me to be restrained in my past criticism of his beers, on the rare occasion such is called for.)
The can-conditioned ale pours a lightly hazy amber, edging more towards red than brown, and presents a rich aroma with ample baking spice notes, including star anise, of course, but also allspice and a bit of nutmeg, fruity aromas of fig and dates, and an underlying cocoa character. For all its fruity aroma and high alcohol, the palate entry isn’t as sweet as I’d expect, more fruit compote than caramel and molasses, with star anise front and centre. In the mid-palate, it opens up more to its fruity, chocolaty side, with flavours of dark fruit cake mixing with dark chocolate brownies, and yes, tasting just as decadent as all that sounds. The finish is again drier than I thought it might be, with dark chocolate and spice mixing with warming but not sharp alcohol.
Overall, if someone handed me this blind and asked me where it is from, I’d unhesitatingly answer ‘Belgium,’ so true is it to that country’s brewing traditions. Having said that, I’d have preferred a slightly lighter hand with the star anise, which grows a bit too much of a factor by the end of the can, but that’s a very minor complaint about a beer I find to be thoroughly enjoyable.
90 ($5.25/341 ml can from the brewery)