New Belgium Fat Tire Ale (brewed by Steam Whistle Brewing, Toronto; 5.2%)
Back in early 2019, Steam Whistle reached an agreement with Boulder, Colorado’s New Belgium Brewing to produce its flagship Fat Tire Ale for the Canadian market, and they did so very, very well. So well, in fact, that I was of the opinion that the Canadian version was actually superior to what New Belgium was brewing in their North Carolina brewery, if not necessarily to the Colorado original. (It had been some time since my last Colorado-brewed Fat Tire, so I was not in a position to judge.)
Then came the controversial decision from New Belgium early this year to change the beer entirely. No longer amber, no longer biscuity in its malt profile – at least judging by the reports I read from people whose palates I respect – no longer showing any of the character displayed by the Belgian ales which inspired its creation. For a time, the Canadian Fat Tire remained unchanged, and I had hope that it might for some reason remain as it was.
Ultimately, it did not.
The new version is rich gold in colour with a bright, white foam and a floral, fresh grain aroma touched by icing sugar sweetness, creating an effect akin to standing in a field of barley on a breezy early autumn day. The flavour, however, lets down those romantic aroma notes, with a cereally start that is neither sweet enough to intrigue nor bitter enough to refresh, leading to mid-palate that provides little more substance than does your standard mass-produced golden ale, with a grassy bitterness dulling the malt backbone and a very quick, very dry finish that leaves scant memory of the beer being consumed.
While very well made – there is nary a hint of anything amiss – this Fat Tire disappoints with its lack of body and character. It may well appeal to drinkers of multinational lager brands seeking to cross over to craft – which I suspect might be the intention of the reformulation south of the border – but were I such a drinker, I’d still reach for Steam Whistle Pilsner ten times out of ten.
68 ($3.65 - $4.10)