Earlier today, I put up a post about bricks-and-mortar breweries, beer commissioners and so-called “gypsy” brewers, and why what matters most, to my mind, at least, is what ends up in the glass. Which seems to me to be a good set-up for a chat about a couple of new beers from the largest brewing company in the world.
The brewing company in question is, of course, Anheuser-Busch InBev, or more specifically their Canadian subsidiary Labatt, and its Maritime sub-label, Alexander Keith’s.
Now, many of you might know Keith’s by its namesake “India pale ale,” printed in quotations because it is quite unlike any other IPA I have ever encountered and has far more in common with a mainstream lager than it does, say, Meantime India Pale Ale. And thanks to that knowledge, you’re probably going to be quite sceptical when I tell you of two new Keith’s brews, both part of the Alexander Keith’s Hop Series: Hallertauer Hop Ale and Cascade Hop Ale.
As the names imply, each is a single hop beer, and were in fact delivered to me with two little jars of hop flowers, one filled with Cascade hops and the other with Hallertauer, ‘natch.
(I’m assuming the Hallertauer is Hallertauer Mittelfruh, and it smells as such, but Labatt isn’t saying.)
Tasting them simultaneously, I found little difference in their appearance, but rather more in their aromas. The Hallertauer, as befits the hop’s characteristics, is herbaceous and a little sweet, with notes of fresh grass, alfalfa and just a bit of rosemary. The Cascade, on the other hand, is predictably citrusy and quite nicely balanced with a bit of caramelly maltiness.
On the palate, the Hallertauer offers no hop flavours jumping out, but rather a mix of dryish maltiness and some dryly herbal notes, ending lightly bitter and very dry, but with an odd sticky sensation lingering on the tongue. The Cascade, I found, works much better, with the citrusy hop shooting forward from the outset and just outshining the orange, peach and caramel malt. On the finish, there is a moderate bitterness and lingering dryness, which makes it much more refreshing and appetizing, and ultimately more successful ale.
So both beers are quite competently brewed, as you’d expect, with the Hallertauer recommended for more timid palates and the Cascade for those just entering pale ale and IPA territory. In other words, I’d say this is not a bad effort at all. But is their creation and marketing a wise move for Labatt?
I wonder. If they’re trying to prove their mettle to craft beer aficionados, such timid attempts are unlikely to sway many people. If they’re offering hoppier alternatives to Alexander Keith’s fans, I’d say they run the risk of turning them on to pale ales and IPAs brewed by smaller, competing brewers. And if they’re simply throwing something out to counter the Molson Six Pints division, I’d say it looks like they’re trying to use a beagle to corral a stallion in full gallop.
Interesting. I take it they saw the writing on the wall and decided that with the rise in craft brewing they ought to get on board with a limited series of non-watered down beers. Totally agree with you on how their IPA should be classified. Ever since I learned what an IPA truly was, that beer struck me as a perversion of nature!
Well put. I think as the comment above suggests, they know they have to do something but aren’t sure which way to go. I found the Hallertau one kind of ordinary but the Cascades indeed more successful and for some reason liked the canned one more than the draft, but it could have been just the pour that day at the Duke. Where Labatt is really showing its stuff though is with Hop Mason, sold currently only at Prime Restaurant pubs I understand. I had one last night with a friend who is a committed APA fan. He was doubtful even to try this but once he did his eyes widened and he said “this is in the zone, more than in the zone”. Maybe the answer in the long run is not to use the Keith’s name for such products but create a Six Pints-like separate image for them.
Gary
All I know is the Cascade Hop Ale is my new favourite beer! Nice stuff—great colour and I love the cascade hop aroma. Good with food and good on its own. The head didn’t last but I can live with that.
I’m sorry, but these are two of the worst “hoppy” beers I have ever tasted. It’s as if Keith’s regular dyed their “IPA” and shaved some type of root vegetable into the fermentation process to give you the Tang version of what an India Pale Ale ought never to taste like. Being a born and bred Scotia Novan, this does absolutely nothing for me but bring sadness on a pale white horse…
Maybe your dissatisfaction comes from expecting IPA-qualities. I didn’t see it like that but like a unique beer spotlighting a unique hop flavour. Why not? I think it’s a great new idea and enjoyed accordingly!
Reblogged this on Febrewary and commented:
I really like the way this writer writes… some good debates on beer.