Decanter magazine is offering up a batch of multi-discipline jewels this month, beginning with a reminder I posted over here about how much guidance the average consumer needs to sort through the miasma of the drinks world these days. (Don’t start with me! If you are about to comment that “the average consumer is fully able to choose a wine or beer or spirit for themselves,” well, you’re not an average consumer. Trust me on this.)
Then up comes this gem from another prominent wine guy, Jacques Lardière, head winemaker for the French winery, Louis Jadot. In discussing what I might be temnpted to call the pinot grigio-ification of modern wine, Lardière says:
”I’m not after technical perfection. I don’t have much time for the Australian approach, where the ideal wine is the most neutral.’
‘It’s easy to clean up a wine, but by removing faults, unless they’re truly detrimental, you also remove its life.’
‘I refuse to go along with it,’ he adds.
You could, and should, say the same thing about beer.